Saturday, February 25th , 2023
Koyn is an upmarket Japanese restaurant in Mayfair of the Nobu/Zuma/Roka style. It has very smart décor, unthreatening dishes, slick service and a price tag to match its Mayfair location. The cooking was actually pretty good, and probably better than it needs to be in some ways, as I doubt that all the pretty young things that thronged Koyn were true Japanese food aficionados. Still, there was genuine ability in the tempura dishes, and a spice tuna rice cracker dish was excellent. This was never going to be a cheap option, and the bill is likely to be of “if you have to ask then you cannot afford it” proportions.
The Dysart is a really fine restaurant near Richmond, and we had a tasting menu that this week featured three dishes involving Japanese rice – this being a sponsored collaboration with the Japanese ministry of agriculture and food. The Dysart’s kitchen talent shone through as usual, with lovely bream with champagne sauce, oxtail risotto and a rice pudding sorbet amongst the many highlights.